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There's just something about mountains in winter. Sitting
at the N.C. 107/Business 23 intersection, waiting for the traffic light
to change, we stare toward Blackrock and Yellow Face and speculate about
the ridges and valleys that appear in sharp relief once their sheltering
leaves fall to the ground.
As far as Richard and I are concerned, "hiking" is the season
that follows Christmas.
When New Year's Eve dawned cold and clear, with a promise of afternoon
temperatures in the high 40s or low 50s, we were ready for an excursion
to Gage Bald, elevation 5,574 feet.
While Gage isn't Jackson County's highest peak, it's in the top 10.
Richland Balsam, the highest point along the Blue Ridge Parkway at 6,410
feet, is Jackson County's highest named peak. Three others top 6,000
feet: Waterrock Knob, 6,292; Mt. Lyn Lowry, 6,280; and Yellow Face,
6,032.
Ranking fifth-tallest among the county's mountains is Lone Bald, elevation
5,880, with the 5,810-foot Blackrock in sixth place. Next is Herrin
Knob at 5,730 feet, followed by Rich Mountain Bald at 5,583.
Rounding out the county's 10 tallest are two peaks that are part of
the same massive mountain: Gage Bald and its close neighbor Charley
Bald are both listed at 5,574 feet according to the U.S. Geological
Survey GNIS database. Both are "bumps" in the spine of Rich
Mountain, the high ridge that separates Canada and Caney Fork.
Accessing Gage Bald from the Blue Ridge Parkway is fairly simple - it's
not far from Wet Camp Gap, a pleasant 30-minute walk from the Bear Pen
Gap Overlook. That route wasn't an option last week, though, because
the Parkway was closed courtesy of several pre-Christmas snows.
Undaunted, we chose an alternate route and were soon journeying from
Canada community toward Gage's steep slope by way of the Roy Taylor
National Forest.
As was mentioned last week in connection with Haywood County's Cold
Mountain, there are no signs or trail markers to point the way. For
much of the trip, there isn't even a trail. Signs of previous logging
activity abound, and remnants of roads are present, but we often had
to fight our way through the dense rhododendron thickets that old-timers
call "laurel slicks" or, more appropriately, "laurel
hells."
But the panoramic view from the top made us forget any aggravations
encountered along the way. Achieving the high ground brings a panorama
of visual rewards.
We could see Richland Balsam, and we saw Cold Mountain looming in the
distance. By turning slightly, we found ourselves looking down Caney
Fork's valley and on toward Cullowhee and the Jackson County Airport.
From our lofty perch we began to see how the mountains fit together.
Looking across Wolf Creek's valley, we could see two of Canada's defining
ridges - Wolf and Tanassee mountains - as they climb progressively higher
towards their peaks (Mt. Hardy and Herrin Knob, respectively) along
the Parkway.
And knowing from looking at maps that Caney Fork is on the other side
of Gage Bald is not the same as seeing the bowl that is Caney Fork spread
before you with its complex array of connecting ridges and streams.
Last Wednesday's unspoiled view from Gage reminded us of why we eagerly
await each winter's hiking season - the clear air and the chance to
see for ourselves what's on the other side of the mountain.
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